SCENES FROM ANKARA

Samanpazari, the Haymarket, was until fifty years ago still a real hay market, pervaded with the aroma of heaped hay bales, and the sounds of sheep bleating and horses neighing mingling with the shouts of traders bargaining with villagers. Today these are gone, preserved only in the memories of the older tradesmen, who are reluctant to speak of the past, perhaps because of nostalgia.

Archaeologists have differing opinions about when the castle was originally built, but they agree that the present structure is typical of 7th century Byzantine fortifications. Samanpazari lies below the castle on the southern flanks of the hill. The market dates from the 15th and 16th centuries, when hay for the riding and pack animals which were sold in the Horse Market higher up the hill was traded here. Not just the people of Ankara, but those from surrounding towns and villages came to buy and sell. To accommodate purchasers and merchants a series of hans, traditional inns, were built in the area.

By the time Ankara became capital of the new Turkish Republic established in 1923, Samanpazari and its environs had already undergone extensive changes, however. A series of fires, the worst being that of 1917, had seriously damaged the hans, hamams (Turkish baths) and shops in this area.

At the same time Ankara had declined in commercial importance, and many of the hans had closed down. The market was still lively, however, and sheep and goats had begun to be sold here. As well as hay and livestock, traders in pack saddles, ropes, earthenware jars, felts, cloth, horsehair and blacksmiths lined the narrow streets between the Haymarket and the Horse Market. The latter was a bustling noisy place, with the shouts of horse traders, the hammering of blacksmiths shoeing horses, braying donkeys, neighing horses, and the buzzing sound of the crowds. A couple of hans were still in business, and there were a few restaurants in the Horse Market.

Ismail Dayi’s kebab house was so famous that members of parliament rode up here on horseback to eat the delicious Ankara döner kebab.

Meanwhile Ankara was spreading rapidly, but the spate of new building did not encroach upon Samanpazari in the old heart of the city, and the area largely preserved its traditional character. Today, after lingering on the sight of basket and bead sellers, you first notice Ahi Elvan Mosque, of mediaeval Seljuk construction. From here there are two routes up to the Horse Market and Fortress Gate (Hisar Kapisi) where the castle clock tower is situated. One is the very steep but more picturesque Koyunpazari Yokusu. This hill, which is closed to traffic during the day, is so narrow that there is no room for two cars to pass. On either side are old-fashioned shops selling hardware, wooden articles, beads and spices, and here you can buy many articles not to be found in the modern downtown shops: shoes for your horses, an evil eye decoration for your cart, a wooden cage for your bird, or a strong leather collar for your dog. As well as ready threaded necklaces you can buy beads of countless varieties and fashion one to suit your personal fancy.

As well as shoppers from villages around Ankara the area is a favourite with visitors to the city. As you climb the hill, detour to explore the side streets, in which you can find shops selling copper ware, or eat a traditional meal in Pirinç Han. Another side street leads to Çikrikçilar Yokusu, or Hill of Wood Turners, which was formerly occupied by turners and carpenters, but is now given over to clothing and fabrics. A side street linking this hill to Koyunpazari takes you to the Museum of Anatolian Civilisations. This spectacular museum, famed above all for its Hittite collection, is located in a bazaar built by Mahmut Pasa, grand vezir to Sultan Mehmed II the Conqueror in the 15th century. But we must leave a tour of this museum to another time, as it is a story in itself.

Climbing still higher you get a wonderful bird’s eye view over Ankara. Meanwhile, do not miss a halt at Dadas Çay Evi on Safa Sokagi, where you can relax over a glass of the delicious tea for which proprietor Hasan of Erzurum is renowned. You are nearly at the top of the hill now. Past the derelict Çengel Han on the left, and a few more steps brings you to the Horse Market, not as busy as it was in the past perhaps, but still colourful, with its shops selling spices, nuts, dried fruit and pulses.

The alternative route from Koyunpazari to the Horse Market is Can Sokagi, which is a broader street lined with shops selling carpets and kilims. Amongst them rises the imposing Ahi Serafettin Mosque and Tomb, built by the Seljuks in 1290. This street brings you into the Horse Market at the other corner.

Whichever route you choose, do not return without entering the castle gate. Inside the castle are numerous traditional Ankara houses, many of which have been restored and turned into bars and restaurants, and others which are still private homes. The narrow lanes filled with children playing, the old buildings and shops form a scene in striking contrast to modern Ankara.

* Saner Gülsöken is a photographer

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