ARTVIN'S TRADITIONAL SPORT BLOODLESS BULLFIGHTING
Artvin is Turkey’s northeasternmost province
on the Black Sea coast, famous for its wild unspoilt scenery of
green forested mountains, raging rivers, diverse flora and fauna,
fascinating history, and colourful folk dances. The province is
also known for its bullfighting, in which the losers usually get
away without even a scratch.
Traditional bullfighting is held every year on the
high pasture or yayla of Kafkasör, eight kilometres from the
provincial capital of Artvin. The pasture lies at an altitude of
1560 metres, and commands beautiful views over spectacular forested
scenery. The area is under conservation as a national park covering
ten hectares, and is a popular excursion place for local people
in summer.
Bullfighting is a local tradition which has its
origins in animal husbandry.
In the past every family moved up to the rich mountain
pastures with their herds and flocks every summer, and spent three
and a half months in mountain huts on Kafkasör. Although lifestyles
have changed, and fewer people make the move today, many families
still continue the tradition.
In June farmers take their bulls and bullocks, between
five and ten in number, up to the pasture and give them into the
charge of drovers known as okuççi (literallly ox-man)
in the local dialect. Being thrust into communal life with strange
animals forces the male animals to submit to a strict hierarchy
of status. Only when this hierarchy is settled are they able to
coexist peacefully.All winter long the bullocks have lived in their
byres feeding on maize and barley, but can now look forward to grazing
on fresh rich green grass in the openair.Freedom to wander on the
pasture at last is cause for exuberance, but the way they strut
around bellowing noisily at one another is not just an expression
of joy at this newly gained liberty. It lies in the instinct each
has to assert its itself over the others and become leader of the
herd. Before the animals are given to the drover it is traditional
to resolve this potentially dangerous ambition for leadership by
conciliating the animals in preparation for communal life on the
pastures. This process is carried out under the supervision to prevent
the bulls from injuring or killing one another, which would mean
serious financial losses for their owners. This centuries old tradition
of organised bullfights still lives on in several of Artvin’s
mountain villages, including a number in the district of Yusufeli
and the village of Özmal in Murgul.Kafkasör was one of
the pastures where this peace-making ceremony between the bulls
traditionally took place. In 1963 Artvin Municipality stepped in
to preserve this colourful custom from dying out with changing times,
and in 1982 it became part of the Artvin Kafkasör Cultural
and Arts Festival, held in the third week of June each year.
Although new activities have been included to draw
visitors, the bullfights are still the star attraction. The bulls
are grouped into six categories according to chest width, the categories
being known as ‘deste’, ‘ayak’, ‘küçük
orta’, ‘büyük orta’, ‘bas alti’
and ‘basboga’ (chief bull). Hundreds of bulls from villages
all over Artvin arrive on the pasture a few days in advance, most
being driven here in trucks. They spend this time in shelters in
the shade of the forest trees, resting and becoming accustomed to
their new environment under the watchful eye of their owners.
* Recep Güvelioglu, gazeteci.
That Sunday morning the bulls are led two by two
into the arena, where the crowds are already gathered. Determined
to get the better of their adversary and win the leadership of the
herd, they aggressively advance on one another.
The tussle of horns is watched appreciatively by
the crowds, who follow every move of their favourites with bated
breath. The bouts are presided over by umpires who cancel the bout
if a bull becomes over-agressive and there is likelihood of injury
or blood is drawn. Normally, however, one of the bulls flees when
his opponent gets the upper hand, and the umpire declares as winner
the bull who stands his ground.
The climax of the event is the final bout for the
title of basboga, or chief bull. When the winner is announced, a
clamour of bagpipes, drums, zurna (a folk instrument similar to
an oboe) and accordion rings out. The pasture echoes with shouts
of joy. While the loser is left to his mournful meditations, the
winning bull owner and his supporters join in a circle to dance
in triumph.
The bulls which put on a good performance in the
fights are often entered by the owners the following year to try
their luck again.
Rearing bulls for the Kafkasör Festival becomes
a passion with some farmers, and the most celebrated competitor
of all time was the late Kâmil Alpaslan, proud winner of medals
for the chief bull year after year. He used to travel around Artvin
inspecting likely candidates, and then spare no expense in caring
for and feeding the young bull which he purchased. Despite his advanced
age, he would feed it himself, entrusting it to no one else in the
family.
Although the bullfighting is the high spot of the Kafkasör
Festival, a visit to Artvin has much more to offer besides. As well
as enjoying this colourful custom of traditional pastoral life,
the magnificent scenery and warmhearted people of this remote province
will make your journey one to remember.
* Assistant Professor Dr Osman Aytekin is a lecturer
in the Archaeology and Art History Department of Yüzüncü
Yil University in Van
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