COLOURS AND SCENTS ANOTHER BODRUM
You are probably familiar with the crowds that pour
into the seaside towns of the Mediterranean in the summer months;
when different colours and languages mingle, and people enjoy the
exhilarating sense of release from daily cares, savouring the pleasures
of sun and sea. The streets, beaches, tea gardens and bars are filled
with colourful clothes, tanned skin and laughter night and day.
Then as autumn draws into winter, silence falls, bringing with it
a melancholy sense of abandonment. One of the places where this
change is felt most profoundly is Bodrum. Yet here the winter months
of short days and long nights have their own evocative beauty, and
in the local markets the lively scene is far from melancholy. At
this time of year these markets are one of the greatest pleasures,
with their bright colours and delicious mingled scents. Every day
of the week there are markets either in Bodrum itself or in one
or other of the surrounding villages.
Bodrum’s Tuesday textile market is famous,
with local fabrics from all over the region on sale.
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The riot of colours and patterns appealing
to all tastes gives the marketplace a fairground atmosphere.
As well as fabrics, there are kilims, carpets, kitchen ware,
and clothing of all description. Part of the fun is listening
to the witty exchanges between neighbouring stall holders,
as they compete for the attention of customers. Then once
the goods are selected buyers and sellers set about bargaining.
On fine days when the sun shines palely in the blue winter
sky, stall holders and customers alike are in good spirits.
Until four or five years ago the Bodrum market was held in
the town’s streets, and when the new marketplace opened
everyone objected at first.
Now, however, they appear to have become accustomed
to it. Thursdays and Fridays are reserved for the food market,
and it would be difficult to find such an extraordinary variety
of fruit and vegetables anywhere else. Even the humble carrot
comes in three or four varieties. |
Mandarin oranges and lemons from the orchards which
cover most of the peninsula form glowing heaps of every tone of
yellow and orange. Then there are the wild herbs so popular in local
Aegean cuisine, such as mustard, nettles, and theligonium. Following
rain edible fungi appear in abundance, and since they are rich in
protein are eaten instead of meat. Most popular of the local varieties
is the çintar mushroom, whose shapeless appearance belies
its fine flavour. Grilled or fried in local olive oil it is a wonderful
delicacy. Who said that Turkey has few varieties of cheese? Believe
me when I say we could compete with France where cheeses are concerned.
On the market stalls are arrayed cheeses of all shape, size, colour
and flavour. Fresh curd cheese, numerous types of Tulum cheese,
cottage cheeses, goat’s milk cheeses, fresh and mature Ka?ar
cheeses, various types of white cheese, and many more present a
difficult choice. Olives, their partner on the breakfast table,
are here in equal diversity:
black olives, pinkish coloured cherry olives, dark
green olives, light green olives, çizik (slashed) olives,
and kirma (crushed) olives. If you arrive at the market early you
can make a satisfying breakfast on the olives and slices of cheese
which the vendors offer you to taste!
Then the colour and variety of the spices is bewitching, conjuring
up images of the distant lands where many of them come from. Strings
of dried vegetables - aubergines, peppers, tomatoes and okra - are
a mouthwatering sight. The gigantic okra unique to this region are
unexpectedly tender and flavoursome. And of course there is the
honey in every tone of amber, in jars or in the comb. Pine honey,
flower honeys and wild Karakovan honey are all to be found here.
Then there are the village eggs, fresh and perhaps even still warm,
with their rich yellow yolks so different from town eggs. Village
women bring in delicious homemade bazlama, a kind of wheel shaped
griddle bread made of whole wheat or sometimes maize flour, either
plain or flavoured with herbs and olives.
The traders of all ages are at least as colourful
and diverse as the goods they sell. Everyone can sell something,
and none are averse to a bit of bargaining! On Mondays it is market
day at Güvercinlik 20 km north of Bodrum. The market of this
small village is on a modest scale compared to other local markets,
but is worth visiting for its picturesque setting right on the seafront.
On the one hand are the stalls, and on the other fishermen hauling
in their nets.
There are a couple of tiny fish restaurants, and it makes an enjoyable
day out. This market sells both food and clothing, and few but local
villagers shop here. The market traders have their favourite places,
so each market has its own distinctive character. Most of those
at Yalykavak, for instance, do not go to the Bodrum market. Nor
do the Milas fabric sellers who go to Turgutreis market have stalls
at Bodrum’s Tuesday market, because the famous Milas market
is held on the same day. On Wednesdays, there are small markets
at Ortakent and Gümü?lük, which also attract quite
a few people.
After shopping at the market on the Kadikale road
out of Gümüslük, you can go down to the sea to enjoy
a meal of fish in one of the seafront restaurants. The Turgutreis
market on Saturdays is one of the most popular of all.
This is a large market with plenty of variety, and as many fabric
stalls as in Bodrum. Kilim and carpet sellers from Milas also have
stalls here. Foods including wild herbs, olive oil and cheese offer
abundant variety. For lunch, Turgutreis has many cheap traditional
restaurants serving a range of delicious vegetable dishes and pilaf.
The last day of the week, Sunday, brings Mumcular market, where
the old airport is located. This is another small local market,
quiet and adequate for ordinary kitchen provisions. As the sun gradually
sinks down, it is time for the market traders to put their stock
away. The bales of fabric and clothing are packed in boxes, the
fruits and vegetables into crates, and herbs and spices into their
sacks. Everyone is in a hurry. Within a couple of hours the stalls
are empty and the traders have gone home.
Only the dogs and cats wander around foraging for
leftovers. As evening sets in silence falls, and it is hard to believe
that just a short time before the air rang with the shouts of traders,
advertising their wares and bargaining with customers. But in the
morning the colourful, noisy scene will begin again at the next
day’s market, so if you missed this one, not to worry.
* Sedef Borovali is a freelance writer.
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