BEAUTIES OF THE BOLKAR MOUNTAINS
Of all Turkey’s magnificent mountains, the
Toros range is perhaps the loveliest. In geological terms this range
is the continuation of the Alps, running parallel to Turkey’s
southern coast from Resadiye in the southwest to link up with the
Zagros Mountains of Iran in the east. The next time you are holidaying
on Turkey’s southern coast, take time out from the sea and
sand to visit the Bolkar Mountains in the central Toros.
The Bolkar Mountains are bounded to the west by
the Taseli plateau, and rise in several peaks in excess of three
thousand metres as far as the canyon known as the Ecemis Corridor
to the east. The mountains divide the Mediterranean coast from the
interior, and the climates of the south and north facing slopes
are quite different, with the result that the vegetation is extremely
varied. To the south, damp warm winds off the Mediterranean mean
that the Bolkar are thickly forested to 2000 metres with evergreens
like Toros cedar, black pine, fir, and juniper, as well as a diverse
range of herbaceous plants.
To the north, on the other hand, the plant cover
is adapted to the cooler climate with its greater seasonal extremes
of temperature.
Life in the Bolkar Mountains begins when the snows
melt in spring. The high meadows are soon ablaze with a myriad species
of flowers and grasses, growing lush and tall in soil soaked with
melting snow. Now it is time for local farmers to send their flocks
of sheep and goats to graze on the high pastures, watched over by
shepherds.
The journey takes days, negotiating deep valleys,
rushing streams, and steep rocks. Finally the flocks arrive on the
pastures, with their springs and glacier lakes. The shepherds live
in stone huts. They are used to all kinds of weather conditions,
and protected by their thick felt cloaks which keep them warm through
the freezing nights. These cloaks, which stand out stiffly around
them, are a typical characteristic of this region.
For centuries the Bolkar Mountains were the home
of nomads, who for many months of the year lived in their hair tents
surrounded by huge flocks. The mountains were their real home, and
here they were buried. Many old nomad graves are still to be seen
in this region, such as those on Meydan, the most famous of the
high meadows of the Bolkar and today a favourite camping spot for
mountaineers.
The highest of the Bolkar peaks is Medetsiz, which
rises to 3524 metres. To reach the summit you must first make your
way either to the village of Maden or to the Meydan pasture. Meydan
can be reached from the villages of Darbogaz and Maden, and is an
ideal base for enjoying the Bolkar Mountains to the full. From here
a walk of 45 minutes to the southwest brings you to Lake Karagöl,
a glacier lake of extraordinary beauty at 2650 metres. The shores
of the lake are also suitable for camping. If you come here in June,
you will find the lake entirely surrounded by flowers of many colours.
Towering above on every side are snow covered peaks.
A 15 minute walk westwards brings you to another
glacier lake, Çinili. With its dark blue water surrounded
by steep rocky shores, Lake Çinili is slightly intimidating
yet fascinating. A walk of around two hours along the valley brings
you to Karagedik, from which there is an unforgettable view of Karatepe,
a summit of 3266 metres.
The Bolkar Mountains are enchanting, with their
brilliant flowers, lakes, spectacular peaks, and remaining traces
of traditional nomad life.
* Ali Ihsan Gökçen is a photographer
Articles
Index
|
