HOLIDAY ON HORSEBACK : ÇÖMLEKÇILER VILLAGE

A road winding through forest of oak, juniper, weeping willow, and red and black pine leads to the village of Çömlekçiler in the foothills of Mount Ballidag. Referred to as Çölmeçler by the inhabitants, this village in the Black Sea province of Kastamonu numbers among its attractions an equestrian holiday centre which attracts visitors of many nationalities. The centre was established about fifteen years ago by Nedim Biyikli, a native of the village, who declares that ‘horses are the creatures closest to man after man himself’.

The story of the venture began when a horse from the town of Daday came ninth among nine horses in a race held in Bartin, and the people of Daday were so ashamed that they challenged their rivals to meet again the following year.The people of Daday decided to hold a race in their home town on 30 August in celebration both of Victory Day and Atatürk’s visit to Kastamonu

The race was held on Kelebek Meadow. Excitement ran so high that eighteen thousand tickets were sold for the race in a town whose population was just three thousand! The horse of Nedim Biyikli, who was then mayor of Daday, performed well. It was at this event that he met Karl Hans Brober, a German with a Turkish wife who was operating equestrian holidays. Soon they were seriously discussing the idea of setting up an equestrian centre. Biyikli and Brober visited the village of Çömlekçi, where Biyikli owned land, several houses, stables and horses, and agreed that Brober would lease these from Biyikli at no charge for the next five years, and establish and run a centre here.

The houses were renovated and before long tourists from 22 different countries were arriving. The villagers watched in astonishment as the visitors spent their days riding on the alpine pastures and splashing through the shallow waters of the dam lake, returning each evening to meals of local cuisine accompanied by ayran, a drink of diluted yogurt.

When the contract came to an end and Brober returned to Germany, Nedim Biyikli and his wife, daughter, son, daughter-in-law and grandson Baris set to work to run the centre themselves. The young Baris became his grandfath’sed main helper at the centre, sharing the same passionate love of horses. When I met him he explained, ‘Most of our horses are of local stock. We have one large Arab, and my grandfath’sed race horse. I have been riding since I was five, and I sometimes act as guide to our guests. Kiraz and I go out riding together a lot.’

Kiraz Özdogan is 16 years old, and has been coming here every summer with her parents for the past four years. Her mother, an archaeologist, discovered the Çömlekçiler Riding Centre during an exploratory study in the area. Kiraz told me that she learnt to ride here and loves not only the pony trekking, clean mountain air, and peaceful surroundings, but also the local food, reading, and playing tabletennis.

Nedim Biyikli told me that articles about the centre have appeared in the local and national press, and that when the Germans used to come they also got coverage in the international press.
People of all ages and professions come here, including doctors, academics and businessmen, and most keep on returning year after year. As well as riding across the mountains and through the shallow reservoir, guests visit the cave near the spring, and delight in the delicious local butter, yogurt, milk and other fresh food. In the evenings meat is cooked over barbecues outdoors.

Biyikli used to go out riding twice a day, but although he has given that up now, he is still as keen as ever on horse racing, and is the proud possessor of nineteen cups. As he showed me round the stables he pointed out his own horse, Layda. ‘She comes from Azerbaidjani stock. She is an ambler and never gallops however much you insist.’ Layda’s companions include Leyla, Cici and Cesur.

Biyikli says that riding is a very healthy sport which exercises every part of the body. ‘People who ride get a good appetite but do not put on weight. In this area you can ride anywhere you want. The mountain pasture is too far to walk, but takes only an hour on horseback.’

The village of Çömlekçiler is 7 kilometres from the town of Daday and 37 kilometres from the provincial capital Kastamonu. There is a regular minibus service between Kastamonu and Daday, and from Daday to the village.

In Çömlekçiler you will enjoy a holiday with a difference, riding the animals that are man’s closest friends.

By Fadile Paksoy Baygül

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