VIRGIN ISLANDS IN THE GULF OF FETHIYE
Every tone of blue and green can be seen in the
Gulf of Fethiye, where the encircling mainland seems to draw the
sea into the embrace of its vegetation. The trees grow right down
to the watr'sa edge, their branches and leaves reaching out as if
unaware of the Mediterranean's salinity. The tiny islands scattered
over the gulf, which in antiquity was known as the Gulf of Glaukos
after the famous Lycian general who fought in the Trojan wars, resemble
pearls strung around the neck of a young bride. So we invite you
to join us on a tour of this beautiful place.
We boarded a boat in Fethiye harbour and headed out of the bay,
across whose mouth lies Sövalye Island, leaving only two channels
at the east and west extremities. The narrow eastern channel is
too shallow for large boats and ships, which have to use the western
channel. In many cases the same advantages which attracted the people
of antiquity to a particular spot are still valid today, which is
why contemporary towns and cities in Turkey are so often built on
or near ancient cities.
This is the case with Sövalye Island, whose
many summer villas share the island with the ruins of late Roman
walls, cisterns and churches.
The name Sövalye, meaning cavalier or knight, derives from
the fact that in the Middle Ages knights turned pirate made their
base here at various times. Some early writers also refer to the
island as Megri Island, after the ancient name for Fethiye. Leaving
the island behind we headed out into the gulf to Kizil Ada or Red
Island, with its steep shores. There is no trace of an ancient settlement
on this island, where the only inhabitants today are the lighthouse
keeper and his family. The group of rocky islets just to the north
are collectively known as Tavsan Adasi or Rabbit Island. We now
sailed north to Katranci Adasi which lies close to the shore opposite
the mouth of the Kargi river. Ancient geographers refer to this
island as Telandria, and it is thought that there was a port of
the same name on the mainland.
Tour boats take visitors to the bay known as Cleopatra's
Bath on the Kapidag Peninsula, where history and natural beauty
are inseperably intertwined. Subsidence of the land over the centuries
has resulted in buildings that were originally on the shore being
submerged, and it is these 6th century AD ruins which have been
given the romantic name of Cleopatra's Bath.
At the north extremity of the gulf, facing the village of Göcek,
is the eponymous island of Göcek, a group of islands known
as Yassicalar Islands and Haci Halil Island. Apart from a handful
of summer houses and a few stalls selling food to people touring
the gulf by yacht, these are all uninhabited. Some Byzantine ruins
can be seen on Göcek and Haci Halil islands, and in Sarisu
Bay on the east side of the former are the ruins of a 7th century
church. The remains of numerous Byzantine churches on the islands
and shores of the gulf, and along the coast to the east mark the
places where pilgrims to the Holy Land halted on their voyage through
the Mediterranean in mediaeval times.
The largest island in the gulf is Tersane Adasi,
where on the shores of the northwest bay are ruins including a watch
tower, and a mausoleum in a better state of preservation. Other
more recent buildings belong to the former Greek settlement.
To the south is Domuz Adasi or Pig Island, which from a distance
appears to be joined to the Kapidag Peninsula at the south-west
extremity of the gulf, but is in fact divided from the mainland
by an narrow channel. On the eastern shore of the island is a ruined
building dating from the late Roman period which has been badly
damaged by winter seas over the centuries. Around 200 metres to
the south of this is a church thought to date from the 12th century.
Its position on slightly higher ground means that it has been protected
from waves and its walls are still standing intact.
Outside the Gulf of Fethiye is Gemiler Adasi (Island of Ships),
which is within easy reach and well worth visiting. Ruins indicate
that this island had a large population in ancient times. It was
formerly known as Keklik or Partridge Island.
The ruins include four large churches, many cisterns,
mausoleums, and storage buildings on the shore, showing that it
was both a religious and commercial centre.
This spectacularly lovely gulf with its fascinating traces of ancient
and mediaeval history is a favourite yachting destination, and can
equally be enjoyed as a day trip when staying in this area. l
By SELAHATTIN GÜZEL*
Photos FARUK AKBAS
* Selahattin Güzel is director of Fethiye Cultural Office
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