WEEKEND REFUGE ON THE BLACK SEA KIYIKÖY

Curious rock formations shaped by the relentless waves of the Black Sea, old houses -some still inhabited-, and superb flavoured fish are among the attractions of Kiyiköy. This tiny fishing village within easy reach of Istanbul lies on a high spit of land between two rivers which flow into the sea here. Kiyiköy, the former Midye, was important enough in Byzantine times to have its own walls, and we entered through an arched gateway in their ruined remnants.
The present inhabitants of this ancient settlement are migrants from Salonika and other parts of the Balkans. Apart from the walls the other reminder of the villagsrn earlier occupants is the Monastery of St Nicolas and we headed there first. A path along the banks of the Pabuç river leads to this fascinating monastery hewn from the rock, with carved decoration on its columns, arches and walls. Then, leaving the monastery to its solitude, we continued on through the trees beside the river bank, where boats lay pulled up on the shore, listening to the cries of the birds.

When we reached the river mouth we spent a long while gazing at the fishing boats setting out to sea. How peaceful and lonely the coast seemed. It was hard to imagine that this area was once infested by pirates.

A boat going upriver towards the sunset woke us from our reveries. The crew, consisting of a fisherman and his small son, invited us on board. Gradually the bird calls and humming of insects lessened and then faded completely. Now the only sound was the plash of the oars in the water. The setting sun glowed in the most marvellous tones of red, then it too disappeared.

We left the boat and set off back to our pension, stopping at a coffee house we passed. As we sipped our tea, we realised that we were starving hungry. It was time to think about what to eat that evening. Naturally we decided on fish. Kiyiköy is famous for its turbot, and our meal was superb.

The next day we decided to explore the village and the harbour. After breakfast at a small restaurant we wandered through the streets photographing the picturesque old houses. Then we descended a steep hill and reached the harbour, where the fishermen were mending their nets and preparing their boats for the next fishing expedition.

It is possible to buy fish here at far cheaper prices than in Istanbul. After chatting to the fishermen for a while, we wished them 'Rastgele', the traditional expression meaning good luck, and carried on.

There are many pleasant walks in the environs of Kiyiköy, and this has made it a popular destination for groups of trekkers. The village is near enough to Istanbul for a day excursion and the promise of a delicious fish meal before returning home is an added attraction.

Eventually it was time to set off for home, and regretfully we turned for a last look at the village set on its green promontory overlooking the temperamental Black Sea. The narrow streets filled with the constant murmur of the sea wind, the simple oldfashioned coffee shops, the quaint houses and delicious fish would draw us back here again. l

* Yüksel Altintop is a photographer.

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